USb type B to MIDI

[LivinLarge]

I want to connect my Casio WK7600 to my Yamaha Reface CP. The Casio only has USB B output. The Reface CP only has MIDI connector. How can I do this?

 

[happyrat1]

Connect the Casio to your computer with a standard USB printer cable.

Connect the Reface to your computer with a USB MIDI interface.

Use the computer to route the MIDI with software.

This is the simplest, cheapest solution.

Gary

 

[anotherscott]

You need a host device. As Gary said, you can use you computer for that. Also an iPhone/iPad if you have one. Otherwise, you can get a dedicated device, like the ones from MIDIPlus or Kenton.

 

[happyrat1]

Like I said. Mine was the CHEAPEST and SIMPLEST solution.

 

[anotherscott]

Like I said. Mine was the CHEAPEST and SIMPLEST solution.

It's still worth knowing about the others. Especially since yours wouldn't be the best solution in all cases. Some people's computers are desktops rather than laptops, and may not be conveniently located for their music work. Or even if they have a laptop, they may not want to have to get/connect/place it every time they use the keyboards. Or some people may be looking for a solution for gigging/busking and may not want to bring a computer for that. Heck, some people don't even have computers, or at least ones that are exclusively their own to use.

Also, I wouldn't agree that yours is necessarily the "simplest" solution, either. Compared to the dedicated boxes I linked to, for example, where basically you simply connect and you're good to go, the computer solution requires, not just the physical connection, but also locating, installing, learning, and configuring a piece of software. Obviously not at all insurmountable, but not as simple as just plugging in a device, either.

 

[happyrat1]

I simply presume the original poster does have a computer or tablet or iphone on which he posted so no need to purchase an extra $100 box just to connect two boards.

If he wants to get up and running the quickest it's still the cheapest and simplest.

Judging by the gear he's posting about I'd assume he wouldn't want to pay an extra $100 for a solution that only works with class compliant devices.

Yamaha always gets my hackles up when it comes to class compliance.

Gary

 

[LivinLarge]

Thanks for the responses. I do have a notebook computer but would prefer a solution that does not require the computer. I will look into the MIDI plus and Kenton.

 

[anotherscott]

I simply presume the original poster does have a computer or tablet or iphone
...
Judging by the gear he's posting about I'd assume he wouldn't want to pay an extra $100 for a solution that only works with class compliant devices.

Just noting that they can be as little as about $50; and that an iPhone similarly works only with class compliant devices.

 

[anotherscott]

One more thought... it is not clear which route is cheapest, or at least significantly so.

... The computer will require a simple USB cable from the Casio to one USB port, and a MIDI-USB interface from the Yamaha to another USB port. There are some no-name generic interfaces which some people happily use, but others have found problematic. A name brand interface (e.g. Roland UM-One) will be $40+, or what look like a new breed of higher quality off-brand versions seem to be appearing in the $15-$20 range on Amazon. If you don't have two available USB ports, though, you may also need to add a hub. So in the end, this may not always end up being cheaper than the ~$50 standalone host (plus the minimal costs of the simple USB and MIDI cables you'd still need to connect the device to your keyboards). Or at least, if willing to go without the name brands, the two approaches could still end up not persuasively far from each other in cost. (There's also an assuption that you'll find suitable software for your computer that is free that will not add yet another cost, but I think the free version of Camelot Pro would probably do it. Though I still don't think that would allow him to "get up and running the quickest...and simplest" compared to just plugging in the standalone box.)

... A lightning-equipped iPhone/iPad will probably require an Apple Lightning-to-USB adapter ($29-$39 depending on whether you want to be able to plug in a charger at the same time, highly recommended), a USB hub, and as with the PC, a simple USB cable from the Casio to one USB port, and a MIDI-USB interface from the Yamaha to another USB port, the total of which (plus possibly the cost of an app) can easily exceed that of a standalone host. I'm not aware of any current single device you can attach directly to the iOS device that will give you simultaneous USB and 5-pin MIDI connectivity, maybe there is one? There used to be the iConnectivity iConnectMIDI 2+ which looked like a nice single-box solution, but it's discontinued. Even then, it was $100 (plus the minimal costs of the simple USB and MIDI cables you'd still need to connect the device to your keyboards).

 

[happyrat1]

Since he mentioned owning a laptop all he'd need is one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK/

And one of these:

Amazon.com: FORE MIDI to USB Interface MIDI Cable Adapter with Input&Output Connecting with Keyboard/Synthesizer for Editing&Recording Track Work with Windows/Mac OS for Studio USB 2.0 Color Red - 6.5Ft: Musical Instruments

Buy FORE MIDI to USB Interface MIDI Cable Adapter with Input&Output Connecting with Keyboard/Synthesizer for Editing&Recording Track Work with Windows/Mac OS for Studio USB 2.0 Color Red - 6.5Ft: MIDI Interfaces - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

I've had no troubles with this particular model of USB MIDI adapater.

Add some free MIDI Routing software and configure and whoop dee doo he's done.

$25 and he's done.

Gary

 

[anotherscott]

Yup, the Fore is one of the "new breed of higher quality off-brand versions {that} seem to be appearing in the $15-$20 range on Amazon" I was talking about. So yes, that's also what I said would work for a PC, plus possibly a hub, if he doesn't have 2 free USB ports. Whether that yields such a persuasive savings over the standalone device regardless of other possible trade-offs* is up to the individual. The point is that there are multiple approaches, each with their own pros and cons, rather than there simply being a universal best answer.


* ETA: possible trade-offs being things I alluded to earlier, i.e. having to install/configure/learn software; having to bring your laptop to the keyboards and wire them up every time you want to use them instead of having something permanently left in place in your music room so you can just turn on and play; inability to have someone else use the computer when you're using your keys; having to bring (and secure the safety of) the computer for portable/gigging/busking use

 

[happyrat1]

You buy a box for $60 or $70, (not $50) and you still have to shell out another $25 for cables regardless.

Chances are everybody with a computer already owns the printer cable and the hub anyway.

Still the cheapest if you are willing to invest a little sweat equity into getting the software running.

 

[anotherscott]

You buy a box for $60 or $70, (not $50)

The one I linked to is $51.60. Here's another for $49.99 but it doesn't include the power adapter (just the cable for it), so you can save a little if you already have an extra USB power plug around.

and you still have to shell out another $25 for cables regardless.

Probably just $8 for something like this. Because, as you said...

Chances are everybody with a computer already owns the printer cable and the hub anyway.

I agree that most people with computers probably have the common printer cables, which is part of why I reduced that figure above to $8. Hubs are less common, I doubt the majority of computer owners have one. Or if you do have one, it means you may well have a bunch of things connected to your computer, so you just added to the hassle, because whenever you move your computer WITH its hub, you have to also disconnect all the devices that you have plugged into the hub, and plug them back in when you bring your computer back to your work area. Unless your computer is normally located in the same room as your music gear, and you have enough ports in the hub to leave everything connected.

Still the cheapest if you are willing to invest a little sweat equity into getting the software running.

Yes, with something like the Fore, that route is the cheapest, if not necessarily as prohibitively so (i.e. the difference is not "an extra $100", it's maybe ~$40 if you don't need the hub, less if you do). But at least you seem to acknowledge here it may not be the simplest way to go ("invest a little sweat equity"). And not everyone is looking for the cheapest solution to the exclusion of all other factors (i.e. the "trade-offs" I mentioned in post #11).

Again, I think there is nothing wrong with your approach! I just continue to think the alternate approaches are also worth considering, depending on someone's needs/priorities.

 

[happyrat1]

I don't know where you shop for cables, but I find cheaper is not always better.

You can spend hours trying to diagnose a system problem and the problem turns out to be a Dollar Store Cable

I tend to stick to name brands.

Gary

 

[LivinLarge]

I have ordered the midiplus. It was $51.60. I will report back on how it works.

 

[anotherscott]

I don't know where you shop for cables, but I find cheaper is not always better.
You can spend hours trying to diagnose a system problem and the problem turns out to be a Dollar Store Cable
I tend to stick to name brands.

The cable I linked to on Amazon (a perfectly reasonable place to shop for cables!) is a name brand (Hosa), albeit a "value" brand. Not top of the line, but not a no-name either. But if you prefer, here's a Roland at the same $8 price.

 

[anotherscott]

I have ordered the midiplus. It was $51.60. I will report back on how it works.

Cool, looking forward to it!

 

[LivinLarge]

I received the MidiPlus USB Host. It works fine. The Cinglish manual left a bit to be desired but other than that, it does the job. I found out that the Reface CP needs to powered by the AC adapter. It would not work when powered by batteries.