Opening and repairing the Medeli AKX10

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Hi All,

I had to do some work on my keyboard, and thought it would be helpful to share my experience, in case anyone needs to open theirs and do some repairs.
There's a good video on youtube from another player that I used as reference (
). I didn't have opportunity to make a video myself, but took some pictures that I hope might be helpful.

First and foremost - disclaimer: I'm not responsible for any damage you might do in case you decide to open your instrument. Please use caution and proceed at your own risk!

With that out of the way, I would say the process is fairly simple - please note that I have sufficient experience with opening and working on computers and other sorts of electronics, but this is my first keyboard and first time working on a musical instrument. With that said, I found it relatively easy to disassemble and work on the Medeli, and my impressions on the build quality and the way it is assembled are quite positive.

I bought my AKX10 used and ever since I have it, the LEDs around the three control knobs weren't working - only the last two LED segments on the right-most knob worked (unfortunately, I forgot to take a pic of the fault..). The knobs and selector button themselves worked and I could still use them, but without any visual indication. It was annoying so I wanted to fix it - I got in touch with Medeli support and they told me it is most likely a faulty board, and offered to sell me a replacement. The board costs EIUR 41 so I ordered it - it looks like this:

Board.jpg


It houses the volume knob and the three control knobs.

To open the keyboard, you have to flip it over and unscrew all screws around the perimeter, plus the two in the holes as well. All the locations that need to be unscrewed are indicated by a small arrow. Once you unscrew them, you can carefully peak in the keyboard, starting from the backside (where the connectors are). There are 4 cables that need to be unplugged in order to be able to separate the top cover (with the electronics) from the keybed - the two wide cables and two more:

connections.jpg


Once this is done, you can remove the top cover and flip it over:

boards.jpg


The motherboard is on the right, and to the left you can see the backside of the board that needed replacement. It is connected via a thin ribbon cable (under the black sticker) and a connector on the other side. The board is held by six screws. In order to remove it, you also need to remove the plastic knobs - this is easily done by gently pulling/wiggling them out. The replacement took me about 5 minutes, including screwing/unscrewing.

Since I had the keyboard open, I decided to re-grease the keys since I had a few minor rattles. I followed the instructions as per the linked video - you need to unscrew the two large covers on the bottom of the keyboard. The screws are quite a few, so I would suggest a powered screwdriver set on low torque. The covers themselves are made from some sort of wood/plywood like composite and are not plastic, which came as a surprise. Once removed, you can see the backside of the speakers, as well as a row of holes with additional screws:

keybed_bottom_screws.jpg


After unscrewing those, you can flip the keyboard over and remove the key assembly by unscrewing the necessary screws:

keybed.jpg


With the keys removed, you can flip them over to access the friction points where you would want to re-grease. Just like in the video, I used a PTFE lubricant and carefully sprayed all joints:

keys_underside.jpg


After that, assembly is just tracing your steps back. Don't forget to plug back all the cables..

With everything put together, after power on, I now have fully working LEDs and knobs! And no squeaky keys!

As mentioned, this is my first time opening a keyboard, but I have a positive impression - everything is put well together, all cables are secured and tied down wherever possible, wrapped in foam to prevent rattles. There is foam lining along the edges where the two halfs of the keyboard meet too. All in all, it looks like a solid build.

I hope you'll find the above helpful in case you need to fix something on your own unit. Feel free to ask me any questions you might have too!
 
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I'm mostly and often on electric guitar forums and I haven't read that childish and stupid "your instrument is bad" thing there in many years. It's really weird here.

Discussing the pros and cons of instruments and equipment is normal. It is also normal that many people are particularly enthusiastic about what they have themselves. But the behavior of some users here is very special...

If I can afford a Yamaha or Korg for triple the price then that's great and I should be happy. Instead, users with cheaper devices are bashed here…
 
Joined
May 17, 2014
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From a positive viewpoint, the replacement board did not cost an arm or a leg, the OP managed to replace it without too much trouble and the end result was satisfactory. I hate to think how much a replacement board for any of my toys would cost! I usually try to repair anything that goes bad but that's not always possible and replacement parts are not always available.

On the other hand, spending four, five, or six thousand dollars/pounds on a top of the line keyboard is no guarantee that it will be trouble-free, even when new. Here's just one example: http://www.synthzone.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/441832/A_warning_to_all_Yamaha_Genos

Warranties are only good for a limited time then you are on your own
 

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