Hammond Clonewheel "B3-like" Case & Stand -- Build, Part 2

[Old No7]

Somewhere down below is my posting for the "Build Started" for this project, and what follows is an update on the progress of this "B3 like" case, with the stand to be done later (the custom maple legs are on order).

I started with a blank piece of ~3/8" plywood... (2' x 4' overall)


Laid out plans for the boards and supports, and some cutouts to save weight...


Cutouts will be covered with black screening...


Glue & dowels are used on all pieces that connect...


Here's how the 2 boards will be stacked...


A view with the 2 sides added (not cut yet); I used 2"x10" fir for those (actual dimensions = 1.5" x 8" now)


I wanted to get the wide profile for the sides; one side is cut to shape, and then drilled many times with a Forstner Bit (where they will be unseen) to reduce the weight...


So far, I'm really pleased with how this project is progressing; and the weight won't be too bad either (more lightening cuts will be done where possible).

Old No7

 

[Rayblewit]

So far, I'm really pleased with how this project is progressing; and the weight won't be too bad either (more lightening cuts will be done where possible).

Old No7

Awesome project.
A labour of love I'm sure.

 

[happyrat1]

Is that solid oak for the fascia?

Pricey but takes a beautiful finish.

I'd recommend a nice Varethane Liquid Plastic for the final finish, and suggest screwing in a chrome strip along the base where your palms will rest. Otherwise your body oils and friction will make short work of the finish on the top edge.

Usually you can find something ready made at a carpeting store and use countersunk screws to secure it in place.

 

[Old No7]

Thanks for the ideas Gary.

It's fir, but has been drilled out which cut almost a pound off of it. At first, I was planning to cover it in Maple Veneer, stained and poly'd, but that veneer is only 1/32" thick and won't stand up to bumps or nicks very well. So I've decided it will be "Basic Black" -- just like Jon Lord's or Don Airey's -- and after 2 coats of gloss black to cover it, it will get sprayed with Rustoleum's "Hammered Black", which will help hide any slight surface imperfections. It's a neat looking finish. My old M3 Chop from back in the 80's was all-black too, so I guess that's my thing.

Old No7

 

[Old No7]

Another update...

It's progressing quite well. My biggest problem is that "I only want to work on this!" -- and not on any house work, yard work, or work work...

You can see the 2 lids in the image below; and I've just engineered a way to have each lid -- both joined by a 48" piano hinge -- to be able to flip up separately, while the other side is still closed and secured.

The perfectionist in me says the handle wasn't cut straight (aaah!), but it will be functional and maybe less noticeable once it's all painted black. A small synth should fit nicely up on top -- so I'm really glad I added the extra height and depth of the cabinet, thanks to comments & images from another "B3 case builder" on another forum where I'd posted my original "Build Started" posting.

My Hammond SK Pro 73 will be transported in its hard case and then placed into this B3 case for practice and shows. The M Audio Keystation 61 will be secured in this case. The B3 Stand with folding legs (that's my next build project) will only be used at gigs or at home, and I'll use a table stand at band practices.

Old No7

 

[Rayblewit]

I like the way you have profile cut the sides.
The original sides as a rectangle looked pretty cool, but now you have an even slicker version.
I am enjoying your progress reports.
Ray

 

[TedS]

Your work is beautiful. However, I can't help but think that you deserve something better for your lower manual than an M-Audio Keystation.

One thing I LOVE about Hammonds' action is that the keys, especially the black keys, go almost "straight down" instead of being hinged from the rear. Honestly, I've never taken one apart, so it's possible that they're hinged somewhere. Regardless, the action is fast and it makes a variety of chords easier to play. Even the ones with awkward fingering.

I'm probably not describing this correctly. However, if I were building something like you, I would hunt around for the least expensive MIDI-equipped keyboard that has the Hammond action, and that's what I would use for my lower manual. My $.02. I love what you're doing and I appreciate you sharing your work here on the Forum!!

 

[happyrat1]

+1 on ditching the M-Audio and picking up something more substantial by Fatar.

M-Audio keybeds make me cringe,

 

[Old No7]

I appreciate the candid comments, thanks.

Factors that led me to select the M Audio controller were the 5-pin MIDI (not USB), 61 keys, light weight (only 9#), it is powered from the Hammond, but especially the lack of excess knobs, switches or sliders that I really didn't want -- all with a small footprint (not too tall or deep), and at a price that didn't break the bank. Sure, there may be much larger, more feature-rich and more expensive MIDI controllers to choose from, but this one meets my needs for this Hammond case.

As for the keybed, I find the M Audio is very playable for "left hand" organ use -- and I won't use it to solo or do smears, sweeps or swoops. The Hammond keys are best for that stuff for sure! I went with the semi-weighted keys to get a different feel, which I got (and nope, it's not a Fatar action and I'm OK with that). But I will say that a really nice and totally unexpected benefit is the Hammond's piano tones are SO much more dynamic and playable on the M Audio controller due to the different velocity and trigger point used. It's working fine for what I'll use it for.

Thanks for looking/listening. Cheers.

Old No7

 

[jmemcse]

Awesome

 

[Duffman]

Nice work....look forward to the finished product.